Portomarin, Spain
A Reborn Village on the Historic Camino de Santiago
A Reborn Village on the Historic Camino de Santiago
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Overview
Portomarín is a captivating inland village in the Spanish province of Lugo, located on the banks of the Miño River. This is not a traditional cruise port, but a unique excursion destination most famous as a key stop on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route. Its most remarkable feature is that the entire village, including its main church, was meticulously dismantled and rebuilt stone-by-stone in the 1960s to save it from being flooded by a new reservoir.
Today, Portomarín stands as a testament to resilience and history, with its medieval-style cobbled streets, historic buildings, and a serene atmosphere that has welcomed pilgrims for centuries. A visit here offers a rare glimpse into a town that is both ancient and modern, providing a sense of its rich past and its vibrant present as a hub for walkers and travelers.
The highlight of Portomarín is the Church of San Nicolás, a 12th-century Romanesque church that was relocated and reconstructed in the new town. This impressive "church-fortress" is notable for its intricate stone carvings, imposing battlements, and the visible numbers inscribed on the stones, remnants of its remarkable move.
Tip: Take a moment to look closely at the stones on the church's exterior to spot the numbers used to guide its reconstruction, a truly unique piece of modern history.
As you enter the town, cross the new bridge over the Belesar Reservoir. From here, you can often see the remains of the original Roman bridge and the foundations of the old village submerged beneath the water, especially when the reservoir's water level is low during dry periods.
Tip: The best time to see the "sunken town" is in the late summer or autumn when water levels are at their lowest.
Walk the long, grand staircase that leads from the new bridge into the town center. Built with stones from the old village, this staircase offers a symbolic and picturesque entrance to Portomarín, culminating at the Chapel of the Snows at the top.
Tip: Take a moment to turn around on the staircase for a fantastic photo of the reservoir and the surrounding landscape.
Explore the charm of Portomarín's main squares, lined with beautiful stone buildings and arcades. The town is small and easily walkable, allowing you to discover its quaint corners, and traditional buildings like the Pazo del Conde de La Maza (now the town hall).
Tip: Find a cafe or bar in the main square and order a coffee or drink to relax and people-watch, as pilgrims from all over the world pass through.
Portomarín is famous for its local cuisine, especially freshwater eels from the river and a strong local spirit called aguardiente. Look for restaurants offering traditional Galician dishes like pulpo a la gallega (Galician-style octopus) or an empanada (savory pie).
Tip: If you are feeling adventurous, ask to try a small glass of the local aguardiente, a potent but traditional part of the region's culture.
Even if you're not walking the pilgrimage, being in Portomarín gives you a palpable sense of the Camino de Santiago. You'll see countless pilgrims with their backpacks and scallop shells, creating a unique, communal, and spiritual atmosphere that is central to the town's identity.
Tip: Engaging in a friendly "¡Buen Camino!" with passing pilgrims is a simple way to participate in the local culture.
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